Picture courtesy Debbi Young
(Note from Debbi: I used three buttons instead of the two called for in the pattern)
This vest is worked in one piece to the armholes (or underarms.)
Abbreviations:
TwR2 = Twist 2 sts to the right (knit into 2nd st first, then 1st stitch)
C6B = Put the first 3 in the back and knit the next 3, then those held
in back
C6F = Put the first 3 in the front and knit the next 3, then those
held in front.
Materials:
Approx 300 yds (or 2 skeins of Bovidae worsted weight)
2 markers
Cable needle
2 buttons
Gauge:
Your gauge will determine the size - I got 4 sts to 1 inch (worsted
weight and size 9 or 10 needles) My sample is 26 inches around, and 15
inches long. This can adjusted to whatever you like. I worked 9 inches
to the armholes, and then 6" to the shoulders.
For a smaller vest - choose a DK or sport weight yarn. gauge is about 5.5 sts to 1 inch (because of the pulling-in of the cables, it is sometimes hard to measure.) This yarn produces a much smaller sample - about 21 inches total width. The length is up to you - for sport weight yarn I wanted a finished vest of about 12 inches long - so worked 7 inches before separating for the armholes. Then 5 inch armholes (to the shoulders.)
Pattern:
(Make these first:) OPTIONAL Pockets - make 2 - Cast On 17 sts and
work in stockinette st - (knit on the right side and purl on the wrong
side), keeping the 2 edge sts in knit on each side. When pocket lining
is about 3 inches or so, place sts on a holder. Leave a good size tail
for sewing later.
Decide where you'd like your buttonholes. For a girl, work them on the right side: k1, p1, k1, yo, k2tog. For a boy work them on the wrong side: p1, k1, p1, yo, P2tog.
Cast On 131 sts (this is for the 2 fronts and back)
Bottom Ribbing
WS P1, K1 across (begin and end with a purl)
RS K1, P1 across
WS P1, K1 across
RS K1, p1 across
WS P1, K1 across ON THIS LAST ROW DECREASE 1 STITCH - 130 STS.
Continue in ribbing established on the first 5 and the last 5 stitches. (Place a marker after them on each end if it will help you remember.)
Row 1 and on the RS: For right front: P2, TwR2, P3, C6B, P3, C6F, P3, TwR2, P3 Place marker. 35 sts (includes 5 edge stitches)
Now continue working for the back.
Back: P3, TwR2, P3, C6B, P3, C6F, P6, TwR2, P6 C6B, P3, C6F, P3, TwR2,
P3, then place marker. 60 back sts
Now continue working for the left front.
Left front: P3, TwR2, P3, C6B, P3, C6F, P3, TwR2, P2, then rib the
last 5
sts. 35sts
Row 2 and on the WS: Rib 5, Slip marker, k2, P2, k3, p6, k3, p6, k3, P2, k3, Slip marker, k3, P2, k3, p6, k3, p6, k6, P2, k6, p6, k3, p6, k3, P2, k3, Slip marker, k3, P2, k3, p6, k3, p6, k3, P2, k2, Slip marker and rib the last 5 sts.
Keep track of your rows. The twisted stitches (TwR2) are twisted every
right side row.
When using lighter weight yarn I twisted the cables every 8th row,
and on the worsted weight yarn, every 10th row.
Pocket Insertion: When your work measures about 4 inches from the very
beginning, do the following on the right side: keeping in the established
pattern, work over 11 sts, then place the next 17 on a holder. Now knit
17 sts of the pocket insert. Work across the row until you come to the
2nd marker. Work 6 sts, then place the next 17 on a holder, and work in
the pocket insert. Finish the row as set.
When finishing these pockets later, first place the stitches waiting
on the holders on a knitting needle (same size as you have been using),
& bind off all sts (I did p1, k1 so the edge didn't roll) Also decrease
1 st in each of the cable sections (by knitting 2 sts tog one time only),
to avoid spread.
When total piece measures 6" from the beginning, place the 2nd buttonhole on the appropriate edge.
Now work the following decreases on the front edges only: At the beginning of the next 2 rows, work the following:
1st Decrease Row on the Right Side: RS - Rib 5, P2tog, 3 times, p1, then continue your pattern across entire row.
1st Decrease Row on the Wrong Side: Rib 5, K2tog, 3 times, k1, then finish your row (knitting the knits and purling the purls - just continuing your pattern.
2nd decrease row on the Right Side: Rib 5, P2tog, twice, then continue
your pattern.
2nd decrease on the Wrong Side: Rib 5, k2tog, twice, then continue across the row.
This leaves 2 purl sts between your ribbing and the cable pattern on the right side.
Underarms: when you have reached your desired length to the underarms, work to the first marker, then place the back and remaining front sts on a holder.
Turn your work, you are now working on front only on the WS - slip the first stitch and bind off 5 sts, then finish the row.
Now continue on this front section only, until your piece measures 6 inches (or your desired length). Place the shoulder stitches on a holder, and keep on ribbing the 5 edge stitches for 1 1/2 to 2 more inches. Put them on a string until you have finished the other front. *Then later - graft, weave or 3 needle bind off with the 5 sts from the other front. It will be tacked down later.
Do the same while working both edges of the back section and the other
front:
slip the first stitch and bind off 5 sts, then finish the row.
Work the 3needle bind off on both shoulders and finish the neckband as stated above* and tack it down.
Blocking:
Wash your finished vest (I like to use a shampoo with a conditioner
and let it soak at least 1/2 hr.) Now pin it to a surface (ironing board
is big enough for this vest) to your desired width. Remember that cables
tend to pull in, so don’t be gentle.
On an all wool garment, no armhole treatment is necessary. But when working with acrylics or blends, I would single crochet around the armholes and then work a reverse single crochet to keep them from rolling, or turning in. You could also pick up stitches and rib a few rows before binding off