Inspired by a Sally Melville class, here is an oddball afghan I designed using some of the color principles I learned. The results are amazingly beautiful. Following the principle of ABSS (anything but stocking stitch) to blend colored striping, I used the following simple stitch pattern:
Row 1: (first color) - K1, P1 across
Row 2: (first color) - purl across
Row 3: (second color) - P1, K1 across (the opposite of row 1)
Row 4: (second color) - purl across
(Therefore each color band consists of 2 rows - alternately knit and purl across and purling back.)
Alternatively, a slip-stitch pattern would work well too.
The trick is to stick to only one small segment of the color wheel. I amassed all oddballs - regardless of fiber type or even weight - in the green and blue family - ranging from a dark forest green to royal blue, encompassing all ranges of blues, greens, and teals in between. The tones range from medium to dark and I steered clear of pastels. I didn't worry too much about mixing intensities of color, although you might care to keep intensity more constant. I ended up with 16 different yarns - the number is unimportant. (I had more variety in my stash but I stuck to oddballs, not wanting to break up good lots that could be used for a complete garment.)
I chose a main color - a very dark green Encore worsted weight and actually ended up buying several more skeins of this (thereby of course already defeating my purpose of using up stash).
I did as follows:
Using size 9 29" circulars, I cast on 220 sts in the main color (A) and worked 5 rows of seed stitch. After the bottom seed band in A, I worked the pattern stitch (working each color for 2 rows) in this manner:
A (patt rows 1&2)
B (patt rows 3&4)
A (patt rows 1&2)
B (patt rows 3&4), etc, etc.
C
B
C
D
C
D
E
D
E
F
E
F
G
F
G
etc, etc.
(each color band therefore is worked 3 times, alternately with another color) Where the yarn is too thin, I worked it doubled.
The choice of which color comes next can be thought out or be completely random. I found I liked the effects best when I kept the contrast between colors more subtle than stark. But the effects of the colors next to each other is always a surprise and ever changing. I find that I was reluctant to put it away, always wanting to see the effect the next color change is going to make. Some of the changes are more beautiful than others, but the total effect is stunning (IMHO). The contrasts of the textures (I included boucle, chenille and ribbon as well as all manner of fibers - from the junky to the sublime - shiny and matte) is as beautiful as the blending of the colors. Although it is not a reversible pattern, the back is attractive as well.
As a variation, I decided to use the dark green main color as every sixth color change and make the middle band of the main color twice as wide as the others (4 rows instead of 2). I liked the effect and think it "grounds" the pattern.
After five or six feet (or desired length), end it with 5 rows of main color seed stitch and then pick up the sides with the main color and do a five row seed stitch border on each side to finish off.
A circular seamless sweater using this technique for the yoke would
be attractive as well. It would also be great as a scarf. Yes, there are
ends to weave in later, but I think it's worth it.
.