Fulled Booties
Fulled Booties --- Copyright notice at end----
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Sizes: Adult small [Adult large]
Finished dimensions:
Adult small Sole: 9" (23cm) long 4" (10cm) wide at ball of foot
3"(7.5 cm) wide at heel of foot
Instep: 1.5"(~4 cm) above toes and 3.5 " at top of instep
near ankle.
Cuff: ~2 " (5 cm) high and 13" (33 cm) around
Adult large Sole: 11" (28 cm) long 4.5" (11.5 cm) wide at ball of foot
3.5 "(9 cm) wide at heel of foot
Instep: 2.0 "(5 cm) above toes and 3.75 "(9.5 cm) at top of
instep near ankle.
Cuff: ~2" (5 cm) high and 14"(35.5 cm) around
Materials:
Adult small: 10-12 oz (300-350 g) chunky or worsted wool that WILL felt
Adult large: 12-14 oz. (350-400 g) chunky or worsted wool that WILL felt
Needles: Size 10 (US) 22-24" (56-61 cm) circular knitting needle
Size 10 (US) double points
Or needles to obtain gauge
Tape measure or ruler
Gauge: 12 st/4 in (or 12 st/ 10 cm) in plain stockinette/stocking stitch
If using chunky/Lopi work single stranded throughout
If using worsted work double stranded throughout
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The numerical figures are given like this: 11 (13) st. The first number
indicates the number of stitches for the small adult size and the number in
paranthesis indicates the number of stitches for the large adult size.
Numbers in brackets will indicate equivalent metric measures. For example,
[10 cm (14cm)] indicates 10 cm for the small adult size and 14 cm for the
large adult size.
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If using chunky/Lopi work single stranded throughout
If using worsted work double stranded throughout
SOLE
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CO 11 (13) st. While working in garter stitch, increase 1 (1) st at the
beginning of each row until there are 17 (21) sts. Work in garter stitch
until piece measures 5.5 (6.0) inches [14 cm(15cm)] from the beginning.
While working in garter stitch, decrease 1(1) st at beginning of each row
until 13 (15)sts remain. Continue working in garter stitch until the piece
measures 11 (12) inches [28 (30.5)cm] long. While working in garter stitch,
decrease 1(1) st every row until 5 (7)sts remain. Bind off remaining stitches.
"Instep"
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Pick up 84 (88) sts around the outside of the sole beginning in the middle
of the narrower heel portion of the sole:
Toe
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Heel
Place marker at center of round (middle of toe section). Knit 2 (4) rounds
in stocking stitch (K all rounds). Slip markers as needed. Next row, knit
to within 3 sts of toe marker (turn work over to look at sole if uncertain
as to which marker is the toe marker), K2tog, K1, slip marker, K1, SSK, knit
to heel marker. Continue decreasing every row until 48 (52) sts remain.
Decrease two stitches on either side of heel marker on next round like
decreases at the toe--a total of 4 sts will be decreased this round; 42 (48)
sts remain. Work toe decreases as before until 38 (42) sts remain.
Note: Change dpns when needed.
Cuff
^^^^^
Switch to dpns. Purl 1 round. Knit 11 rounds. Purl 1 round. Bind off in
purl stitch LOOSELY.
Knit the second bootie. The booties will be LARGE.
Fulling
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Place booties into the washing machine with articles that will cause
abrasion to the booties such as old canvas tennis shoes, tennis balls, old
towels, etc. Add detergent--I add my usual laundry detergent--in the amount
for a usual wash. Wash on hot. Check size occasionally during first cycle.
Continue washing until bootie has reached desired size. This process may
take 1-4 cycles or MORE depending upon the temperature of your water, the
amount/nature of abrasion articles, and the nature of the wool you're using.
Shape bootie as needed. Stand to dry. Drying takes 24-48 h depending upon
heat/humidity.
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Copyright: Susan A. S. Parker. This pattern may be copied and given freely
with this copyright notice kept intact. Copies of the pattern may not be
sold or used for financial gain. No more than one finished product may be sold.
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Note on different wools:
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I have used Lopi and Brown Sheep with success. I have found that the Lopi
gives a "lighter" bootie. This could be due to the fact that the Brown
Sheep ones that I made were double stranded worsted, too. The Brown Sheep
didn't seem to "fuzz" as much as the Lopi. They were as dense though.
I do not recommend knitting the sole out of one "brand" and the instep/cuff
out of another "brand". One of my unsuccessful experiments used BS for the
sole and Lopi for the instep/cuff. The BS didn't seem to full as quickly as
the Lopi so the sole looks more like a "banana" than a flat sole.
Change colors as desired. Stripes work nicely on these. If color work is
desired, keep it SIMPLE. I have made a few pairs in which the yarn was
carried over a max of 3 stitches without much problem. I have knit in other
blends with colorwork (even a chunky/slubbed silk cashmere blend) without
much problem. I would suggest keeping the mixtures down to a minimum if
possible. Just be sure to keep the main yarn in every row/round.
I have had some success with mixing mohair (single strand) in with the wool
when knitting fulled hats. So it would probably work for booties too.
A way to shore up the sole to make it more durable is to "weave" wool into
the garter nubs inside of the bootie. To do so, turn the bootie inside out.
Use a blunt tapestry needle or long darning needle or other long needle. Run
the yarn "up" through the "n"s and down through the "U"s. This is a great
way to use up the leftover scraps of chunky/worsted wools you've got laying
around.
Another possibility would be to add a pile (or shagged--yes, i remember the
discussion of a few weeks ago!) lining to the sole.
ENOUGH!
Enjoy!
See copyright notice above
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