This is a V necked seamless raglan cardigan, sized for infants and knit from the bottom up. It is decorated with a simple knit/purl pattern above the body and sleeve ribbings. The body and sleeves are decorated with a simple pattern, which you can either do as texture or color.
Gauge:
22 stitches to 4 rows DK weight yarn.
Materials:
I used most of a 100g skein of a Wendy DK from my stash. It's a 75%
acrylic 25% wool blend; no yardage given.
Small amount of a second color if you want a color pattern.
A circular needle and a set of DPNs in the size you need to get gauge
(I used a size 4), plus a circular needle and DPNs two sizes smaller. Most
of the sweater is knit back and forth, so the length of the circulars doesn't
matter much.
Size:
Size A: 20.5;
Size B: 22;
Size C: 24 inches at chest. These are finished sizes.
Pattern:
Begin Body:
Using smaller needles, cast on 114 (122, 134) stitches.
First row (RS): K2, *p1, k1* across to last two stitches, K2
Second row (WS): P2, *k1, p1* across to last two stitches, P2.
Repeat these two rows for 1.5 inches ending with WS.
Change to larger needles.
First row above rib: Knit. Increase one stitch at the center of the row. (115, 122, 134).
Next row: Purl.
Body Pattern: This is a really simple pattern: a horizontal line, a zigzag, and another line.
(For fairisle colorwork, rows 1 and 7 are knit in a single color)
Pattern row 1: K1, P to last st, K1
Pattern row 2: Purl
Pattern row 3: K1, *P1, K3,* to last 2sts, P1, K1
Pattern row 4: P1, *P1, K1* to last stitch; P1.
Pattern row 5: *k3, p1*; end with K3
Pattern row 6: Purl
Pattern row 7: k1, purl to last stitch, k1
Continue in Stockinette until body measures 6 (6.75, 7.5) inches from beginning, ending with a WS row. Leave the stitches on a circular needle, and start the sleeves.
Begin Sleeves (make 2).
Using smaller DPNs, cast on 28, (30, 32) stitches and work 2 inches in k1, p1 rib.
Change to larger needles.
Round 1: Knit and Increase to 40 (44, 48) stitches.
Sleeve pattern: this is the same as the body pattern.
Round 2: Purl
Round 3: Knit
Round 4: *p1, k3*
Round 5: *k1, p1*
Round 6: k2, *p1, k3* k1
Round 7: knit
Round 8: Purl Knit every following round until sleeve is 6 (6.25, 6.5) inches long. Put 4 stitches on a holder (a piece of contrast yarn is ideal). Remaining stitches should stay on a needle; a short circular would be perfect.
Join the sleeves and the body.
Note: the first few rounds are going to be very tight when you knit across the sleeves.
Start with the body. Knit 27 (29, 32) stitches, and put the next 4 stitches on a holder. Place a marker.
Take a sleeve and knit across the 36 (40, 44) sleeve stitches onto the body needle. Place another marker. Knit the next 53 (57, 63) stitches from the body. Place a marker. Put the next four stitches on a holder. Knit across the stitches of the second sleeve. Place a marker. Knit the last 27 (29, 32) body stitches.
Next row: Purl.
Shaping the yoke:
You will knit back and forth, decreasing before and after every marker on every RS row for the raglans. There will be 16 (18, 20) decrease rounds. There are lots of options for the decreases, and different options will give different looks to the raglan lines. See Fee's _Sweater Workshop_ for descriptions and photos of some of the options.
Option 1: Knit to three stitches before the marker, k2 tog, k1, slip marker, ssk. This will give you a smooth diagonal band of stitches at each raglan. You can make the band narrower by doing a knit to 2 stitches before, k2tog, slip, ssk instead. AT THE SAME TIME, decrease one stitch at each front edge every 4th row for the Vneck shaping.
Here are the first few yoke rows, written out to help you see how it works:
Row 1: K1, *knit to 2 stitches before marker, k2 tog, slip marker, ssk* 4 times, knit to end.
Row 2 and all WS rows: purl.
Row 3:k1, ssk, *knit to 2 stitches before marker, k2 tog, slip marker, ssk* 4 times, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k.
Row 5: Repeat row 1
Row 7: repeat row 3
Continue on until you have 3, (2, 2) stitches in each front section. There will be 4 stitches in each sleeve section and 21 (21, 23) at the back.
Keep the remaining stitches on a holder, or cast them off.
Finishing:
First finish the underarms by grafting.
Button band: You'll pick up stitches for a horizontally knit garter stitch band. Other options include seed stitch, crochet, ribbing, etc. Directions are approximate; you may have to play with the number of stitches to pick up 21 Use a smaller size circular needle.
Pick up stitches along the horizontal front edge at a rate of 3 stitches for every 4 rows. When you reach the *corner* where the neck decreases start, pick up an extra 3 stitches; continue up the sloping edge picking up 4 stitches for every 5 rows. Knit the live stitches at front, arm, and back neck from the holders. Pick up stitches down the other side in the same fashion you used before.
Next row: Knit.
Next row: Knit, adding 5 evenly spaced buttonholes to whatever front straight edge you wish. A simple yo, k2tog eyelet button hole should work well with buttons up to 5/8 of an inch or so.
Next row: Knit
Next row: bind off.
Darn in threads, sew on buttons FIRMLY, and you're done.
Ideas:
It's easy to substitute another knit purl pattern for the simple zig
zag I used. Anything with a 4 stitch repeat will work; with other repeats
you are on your own to make it work evenly around the sleeves and body.
Two color patterning in fair isle would also be pretty. All-over stripes
would be a good way to use up odds and ends; if you've never seen stripes
on a seamless raglan you should know they make a great square cornered
pattern around the shoulders. And because the body is worked back and forth,
intarsia can be added.