Sampleses were knit with US size 2 needles and Opal yarn
Picture courtesy Leah Falana
For those of you who are advanced sock makers and would just like a cut-and-dried formula, see the short-and-sweet version at the end.
Materials:
2-3 skeins fingering or sock weight yarn (Nylamb, Socka, Fortissima,
etc.)
1 set DPNS, size US one (or size to get gauge)
Gauge:
8.5-9 stitch per inch
11-12 rows per inch
(Yes, the gauge can vary slightly according to your personal taste in sock fabric and desired width)
Leg
Cast on 72 stitches onto 3 DPNS (24-24-24)
Join, and work in round.
Rib in K2, P2 (or desired ribbing pattern) for 2.5 " (or to desired length for cuff)
At desired length of ribbing, switch to stockinette for 2.5" (or to desired length before calf shaping)
Calf Shaping
Shaping round: K1, SSK (or Slip one, Knit one, Pass slipped stitch
over) knit to last three stitches, then K2 tog, K1
Repeat this shaping round every SEVENTH round FOUR times, for a total of 64 stitches.
(You should have 20 stitches on needle number one, 24 stitches on needle number two, and 20 stitches on needle number three.)
Now, knit to desired length of leg (my sock was 9 inches from the top of the ribbed cuff to the top of the heel flap).
Heel Flap
Arrange to have 32 stitches on the heel flap (use whatever method works
for you and gets the 32 stitches onto one needle).
Knit 32 rows in stockinette or heel stitch, end ready to begin a Right Side row.
Heel Turning (Round heel taken from Nancy Bush's "Folk Socks")
Row 1: Knit to middle of row (16 stitches), K2, K2 tbl (through back loops), k1 TURN
Row 2: Slip one, P5, P2tog, P1 TURN
Next row: Slip one, k to within 1 st away from gap, k2 tbl, k1, TURN
Next row: Slip one, p to within 1 st away from gap, p2 tog, p1, TURN
Repeat these two rows until all sts have been used up from both sides, knit to middle of the right side row.
(NOTE: k2 tbl can be substituted with k1, slip one, PSSO)
Heel Gusset
With same needle, knit across first half of heel stitches, pick up
16 stitches along side of heel flap (pick up st tbl and twist to prevent
"holey" gussets). (I pick up stitches tbl on one round, then k1b on next
round, THEN start gusset decreases, but it's up to you.)
With empty needle, knit across 32 instep stitches
Pick up 16 stitches along next side of heel flap; with same needle, knit second half of heel stitches
Next round: needle one: knit to last three stitches, K2 tog, k1
needle two: knit across instep stitches
needle three: k1, ssk, knit to end of needle
Next round: knit plain across all three needles
Repeat these two rounds until you have the desired number of stitches for the foot of your sock. I stopped decreasing at a total of 68 stitches.
Foot and Toe Shaping
Knit plain until 2- 2.5 inches away from end of foot.
Shape toe using this formula:
Needle one: knit to last three stitches, k2 tog, k1
Needle two: k1, ssk, knit to last three stitches, k2, k1
Needle three: k1, ssk, knit to end of needle
In order to make a nice, rounded toe, I place these decreases between 3, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, and then 0 plain rounds until I have 8 stitches left.
If fussy, weave the eight stitches together. If not so fussy (like me), cut the thread leaving a tail long enough to thread through darning needle. Draw end through remaining stitches and pull snug.
Weave in ends. Cast on for next sock right away!
Cast on X (72) sts
Rib in K2, P2 for X (2.5) inches
Switch to stocking stitch for X (2.5) inches
Decrease for calf: k1, ssk, knit to last three st, k2tog, k1
Repeat this round every X (7th) round for a total of X (4) decrease rounds, ending with X (64 sts)
Knit until entire sock is X (9) inches from top of cuff to top of heel flap.
Work heel flap on X (32) stitches
Turn heel, pick up gusset stitches, work gusset decreases to X (68) sts for width of foot
Work foot in stocking stitch until X (10) inches minus 2-2.5 inches for toe shaping
Work wedge toe shaping rounds between 3, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, and then 0 plain rounds until 8 sts left. Kitchener stitch those 8 stitches, or simply draw stitches together with yarn and darning needle and pull firmly.
Weave in ends and CO for another sock!
Someday I hope to be able to say "I've been knitting socks this way
for years." But the
refinements are yours to make. Have fun!