4.5mms (UK 7s) (about 50gms)
Tension approx 5sts and 6 rows to 1inch (not absolutely vital)
Worked in reverse st st.
Cast on 5 sts. Purl 1 row
Rows 2 & 3: Knit, Increasing in every st but the last (9sts); P 1 row
Rows 4 & 5: The same as 2 & 3 (17sts)
Rows 6 & 7: The same as 2 & 3 (33sts)
Rows 8 & 9: (K1, inc in next st) to end (49sts); P 1 row
Row 10: (K2, inc in next st) to end (65sts)
Rows 11-13: st st 3 rows beg with purl row
Row 14: (K3, inc in next st) to end (81sts)
Rows 15-17: st st 3 rows
Row 18: (K4, inc in next st) to end (97sts)
Rows 19-21: st st 3 rows
Row 22: (K5, inc in next st) to end (113sts)
Rows 23-25: st st 3 rows
Row 26: (K6, inc in next st) to end (129sts)
Rows 27-29: st st 3 rows
Row 30: (K7, inc in next st) to end (145sts)
Work 2.5ins in st st, ending on a purl row
Next row: (K7, K2tog) to end (129sts)
Work 2.5ins st st ending on a purl row
Change to 3.25mms (UK 10s) and work 1.5ins K1 P1 rib.
Cast off leaving a long (15ins) tail for sewing up.
Join seam invisibly then, leaving yarn in sewing up needle, twist it
several times like making a twisted cord. Grasp this twisted yarn between
finger and thumb about three quarters of an inch from the beret and fold
it back to form a "spike". Draw the sewing needle back to the
wrong side and fasten off tightly.
If the ribbing seems a little loose thread a couple of rows of shirring elastic through the cast off edge and another row a quarter of an inch away.
This is also interesting worked in two colours, especially if you introduce a colinette type yarn for a couple of rows after every inch or so of main colour.