Glittens


 
Abbreviations:
M1R = make 1, lifting the bar from back to front, knit through front loop
M1L = make 1, lifting the bar from front to back, knit through back loop

These are mittens with an index finger as well as a thumb. If the instructions seem odd, especially around thumb pickup, it is because I freely fudge to get a holeless, smooth result. Feel free to do what works for you.

The thumb increases are paced to Anthony's thumb - adjust them to yours by varying the plain rows. A very large hand could go to 15 increased sts, a child's only to 9 or 11 increased sts (or less?). The thumb increases should extend to and barely cover the first knuckle of the thumb
(where it leaves the palm of the hand), and be wide enough to wrap the base of the thumb from joinings at palm and top of hand.

To make a completely reversible glitten, place the thumb increases at very beg of 1st needle and make both sides of the mitten portion the same. Less comfy, more practical if you or yours lose mittens frequently. (In this case, get another skein of yarn and make 3!)

An alternative to using both the tail and working yarns together for the first (joining) st is to CO 1 extra st, then K it and the first st together.)

Gauge:
over st st on #5 needles (or whatever size you require to achieve gauge) 6 sts/inch, 7 1/2 rows/in

Materials:
Woolease, 2 1/2 oz, 162 yds (and perhaps a tiny bit more). Or other yarn with which you achieve gauge and comfortable "hand".
1 set each #4 and #5 sock needles (sets of 5 needles are what I find easiest)

Right Glitten:
CO 48 sts by your favorite method for socks (I used long-tail on 5's and then dropped to 4's, but only because I didn't think of tubular till the ribbing was almost done!)

Divide onto 4 needles, 12 apiece, work 1st st with both working yarn and tail (I think this makes smoother join), then continue in 1X1 ribbing for 16 rows (more or less, to taste) on smaller needles. Change to larger needles, continue 1X1 rib for 3 rows, then work 4 rows 3X1 rib, then 3 rows even st st.

On first needle, begin thumb increases: K5, M1R, K1, M1L, K6. Continue the round in st st, K 1 round plain.
2nd inc row: K5, M1R, K3, M1L, K6. Continue rnd in st st, K 1 rnd plain.
3rd inc row: K5, M1R, K5, M1L, K6. Continue rnd in st st, K 1 rnd plain.
4th inc row: K5, M1R, K7, M1L, K6, finish rnd as before, K 2 rnds plain.
5th inc row: K5, M1R, K9, M1L, K6, finish rnd, K 2 rnds plain.
6th inc row: K5, M1R, K11, M1L, K6, finish rnd, K 1 rnd plain.

Now isolate the thumb sts: K 5, sl 13 thumb sts to string or holder, CO 1st (I used knitted CO), K6, finish rnd plain. (Try to be sure the yarn is pulled snugly across the thumb gap from the CO st - this makes holes less likely later)

Continue in st st for 15 rnds, or to base of index finger, just to the V between index and rude fingers.

Isolate the finger sts & make the mitten portion:
K6sts, slip them to string, K around to last 6 sts, place these last 6 sts on same holder.
Then CO 2sts (knitted CO), knit around, join firmly, and continue the rnd.
Then arrange sts thus: 1st needle - 9 sts, 2nd needle 10 sts, 3rd needle - 10 sts, 4th needle 9 sts.
Have 1 CO st leading 1st needle, and 1 CO st ending 4th needle.

Continue in st st for another 14 rnds, or to end of little finger.
Begin shaping: 1st dec row: K1, SSK, K13, K2tog, K2, SSK, K13, K2tog.

2nd dec rnd: K1, SSK, K11, K2tog, K3, SSK, K11, K2tog, K1.

Knit 1 rnd plain.

3rd dec rnd: K1, SSK, K9, K2tog, K2, SSK, K9, K2tog, K1.

Knit 1 rnd plain.

4th dec rnd: K10, K2tog, K1, SSK, K10.

5th dec rnd: K1, SSK, K6, K2tog, K2, SSK, K6, K2tog, K1.

6th dec rnd: K1, SSK, K4, K2tog, K2, SSK, K4, K2tog, K1.

Knit 1 rnd plain.

7th dec rnd: K1, SSK, K2, K2tog, K2, SSK, K2, K2tog, K1.

8th dec rnd: K1, SSK, K1, K2tog, K1, SSK, K1, K2tog

Break yarn at comfortable working length, about 6 inches, thread once or twice through all sts, draw up and secure on inside.

Now the finger: using larger needles, place the 12 sts from holder evenly onto 3 needles, pick up 1 st in each CO st from the mitten (this joins the V between index finger and mitten), M1L at thumb edge of finger, K1 st into st below next st, K st above inc and next 3 sts, M1R - 21 sts total. (19, 20, 21 sts - just be sure there are no holes for the wind to whistle through, remember that you want a just snug but not tight or loose fit, adjust decreasing accordingly) Arrange sts evenly on 4 needles with thumb edge between 4th and 1st needles, mitten edge between 2nd and 3rd needles.

Knit around in st st until finger is the length desired, minus 1/2 ".

Dec for fingertip: K2tog around, knit extra st even. 11 sts. Knit 1 rnd,
K last 2 sts tog. K2tog around. Break thread at comfortable length,
thread the sts and draw up, secure on inside.

Last, the thumb: place the 12 sts from the holder onto needles, pick up 1 st in CO st, knit 1 in side of sts, twisting it, K 1 in next st below, M1L - 16 sts total, then K up 2 more sts in side of gap, twisting to tighten - 18 sts. (16 gives me a snugly fitting but not tight thumb. One more st
wouldn't hurt if needed to eliminate holes, just adjust the decreasing at base of thumb.) Knit around decreasing by K2tog at beg and end of rnd, at the V formed by palm and thumb. Next rnd, a third K2tog if needed to achieve 16
ts.
Knit around to desired length minus about 1/2 inch. K2tog around, K 1 rnd plain, K2tog around. Break yarn, thread sts and draw tight, fasten off inside.

Left Glitten:
Reverse thumb shaping, and do the thumb shaping on the 4th needle. The index finger position is determined by the thumb of course, and the mitten shaping is too, ie on the 4th dec row, the decs are always on the side opposite the thumb. (This shapes to the ring finger.)


Copyright 1999 Edna Humphrey. E-mail: eddieknits@aol.com

 

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