Pattern:
Work a gauge swatch using patterning for best accuracy
From the following reference chart, choose a size for the sweater or
use measurements you already have for custom fit. These are fairly generously
sized. See notes at the end of pattern.
| CHILDREN'S SIZES | |||
| Age/size | Fin Chest Measurement | Body length from yoke | Sleeve length from yoke |
| 2 | 25.5" | 5" | 4.5" |
| 4 | 27 | 6 | 6 |
| 6 | 28.5 | 7.5 | 7.5 |
| 8 | 30 | 8.5 | 8.5 |
| 10 | 32 | 9 | 9 |
| 12 | 34 | 10.75 | 10.75 |
|
|
|||
| Sm | 38.5" | 12" | 12" |
| Med | 41 | 12.5 | 12.5 |
| Lg | 44.5 | 13 | 13 |
| XL | 46.5 | 13.5 | 13.5 |
| XXL | 50 | 14 | 14 |
| XXXL | 55 | 15 | 15 |
**FYI, this is just a reference chart -- I actually like a longer body and slightly shorter arms, but I copied this from a published pattern for general use purposes.
STEP 1: Grab a calculator and multiply chest measurement corresponding to size by YOUR gauge. This measurement is X.
STEP 2: The chest measurement in inches = Z
STEP 3: Still using calculator, fill in the following chart, then fill in for your pattern in the section that follows.
Measurements:
Neck = 0.40 x X = _____
Front & Back = 0.42 x X = _____
Neck1 = 0.50 xX = _____
Underarm Ease = 0.08 x X = _____
Neck2 = 0.77 x X = _____
Sleeve1 = 0.25 x X = _____
Neck3 = 1.16 x X = _____
Sleeve2 = 0.33 x X = _____
Neck4 = 1.34 x X = _____
Sleeve3 = 0.20 x X = _____
Yoke depth (final) = 0.25 x Z = _____
Body 2 = 0.90 x X = _____
Yoke depth1 = 0.30 x 0.25 x Z = _____
Yoke depth2 = 0.50 x 0.25 x Z = _____
Remember to transfer these to the actual knitting pattern below.
1. Cast on Neck_____. Rib at least 2 inches (I recommend 3).
2. In pattern, knit 2 rounds even. Increase to Neck1_____sts.
3. Knit one round even. Increase to Neck2_____sts.
4. Knit until length from ribbing is Yoke depth 1______inches, then increase to Neck3_____sts.
5. Knit until length from ribbing is Yoke depth 2_____inches, then
increase to Neck4 _____sts.
6. Knit even until length from ribbing is Yoke depth (final)_____inches.
Yoke is now complete. Divide as follows:
Sleeve1_____sts on holder
Knit Back_____sts
Sleeve1_____ sts on holder
Cast on Underarm Ease_____sts.
Knit Front_____sts.
Cast on Underarm Ease_____sts.
7. Join. Number of sts should be equal to X (the first calculated measurement
you made). Work even until 2" short of desired length. Decrease to Body2_____sts
over the next 2". Add
ribbing. Cast off.
8. Sleeves - Pick up Sleeve1_____sts. Pick up, M1 style up to 3 sts
at joint between these sts and Underarm Ease sts. Pick up Underarm Ease
_____sts. Pick up, M1 style up to 3 sts
at joint between these sts and first st picked up. Join. Total arm
sts should be ABOUT Sleeve2_____sts. Work even, decreasing as desired down
to Sleeve3_____sts at desired length. Add ribbing. Cast off.
9. Tuck in all ends.
NOTES:
Don't use WoolEase at the neck. It stretches dreadfully, which I have found to be the case whenever I've used it in a sweater, much to my dismay. It's fine for the rest of the sweater and even for the cuffs if you like them loose.
At the neck, do cast on moderately loosely so it will fit over the head.
If I'm using size 8 needles, I generally do 18 rows of ribbing, which
gives a VERY nice "flow" to the look. If the neck stretches out after it's
been worn a few times (like with WoolEase -grrrr, grrrr), do not despair.
Just pick up Neck sts in a more resilient yarn and rib up a few rows. With
all the oddball color changes in the rest of the sweater, it just looks
like a design feature.
Do change to a new color at the Neck increases to "hide" them. I usually have the increase row be one color which will be the background in the next pattern, then end the pattern with a solid row also.
Don't let the "math" throw you. If you come up with some funky number
like 6.932, just round up to be safe.
If you wind up over or under a couple of sts here and there, don't worry about it.
For a cardigan, do all the calculations the same. Then work it basically the same way, just divide the front stitches in half and work back and forth.
When you've finished, work a strip of garter stitch which, when slightly stretched, will be the same length as the sweater and sew into place or use any border band method of your choice.