Knitting Tips: Yarn Questions

1. Combining Yarns
2. How Much Yarn for an Edging?
3. Estimating Yarn
4. Adding a yarn to get gauge
5. Alpaca
6. Sub DK for Worsted?
7. 2 strands instead of 1
8. One Skein Short Dilemma
9. Yarn for Christmas Stocking
10. Comparable Yarn
11. Should I throw this out?
12. Yarn in Mags
13. Diagonal Garter Ratio

Joan Schrouder 1/18/03

"I do have lots of worsted wt. wool though. Do two strands of worsted make 1 strand of bulky yarn? I supposed I could do a gauge swatch to answer my question but thought I would pose it here before playing with it since I have a zillion other projects going and know once it is on the needles I will become obsessed. Is there a website somewhere that shows combinations of yarns to come up with different weights? I seems I vaguely remember such a thing."

As a very general rule, I add the # of sts/inch in the two yarns being used, then divide the result by 3 to get the probable gauge. So add 5 and 5, if you're using standard KW wts, get 10, divide by 3 = 3.33 sts/inch.

If you're working backward, and need, say 3 sts/inch, triple the 3 which = 9, then divide that by 2, = 4.5 sts/inch. So you could double a yarn that gives you 4.5 sts/inch to get your target gauge of 3 sts/inch.

Of course do the gauge swatch to verify what size ndl you'll need to achieve it.

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Joan Schrouder2/4/03

here's my question, i am knitting a scarf for dh and since my sides do not look good i thought i would single crochet around the edge to finish it off how can i estimate how much yarn it will take to do the finish edging?

Figure out the perimeter of your scarf, in inches by measuring all arnd it. Now sc over 5-8", some number that will divide evenly into your perimeter. Rip out the sc's and measure how much yarn that took. Figure out how many times your 5-8" goes into your perimeter, then multiply that # by the length of yarn it took you to sc the 5-8".

For example, your scarf is 60"x6". That would give you a perimeter of 132".

Now sc along 6" of the scarf. 6 goes into 132 twenty-two times. Remember 22. Now rip out the 6" of sc. Say it measures 12". Multiply 12 x the 22 to see that you will need 264" of yarn to go arnd the entire scarf.

If you're only sc'ing along the long sides and not the ends, then figure it for those only.

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Joan Schrouder 2/7/03

First--when knitting a triangular shawl (specifically the lace butterfly shawl), at what point is the knitting half done?

The shawl is 266 rows wide and I know that at row 133, I will not be half done knitting. Is there a rough guide as to what point is about half done?

I cover this in my "Shaping Shawls" class on Triangles - You have used half of your yarn when you are ~3/4 of the way to the top. When you reach halfway to the top, your current position, you have used 1/4 of your yarn.

To prove the latter, draw a triangle with the point at the bottom. Now draw a horizontal line halfway up. Next, draw two angled lines in the top section so that you get a mirror image of the bottom triangle. I'll see if I can do this in acsii -

\ /\ /
\/_\/
\ /
\ /

There are now 4 smaller triangles in the larger triangle. Each one uses 1/4 of the total yarn. So if you've used 3 sks out of 10 at the halfway distance, then you won't have enough to get to the top. Remember that blocking will enlarge things by 20-30%, but that won't help you reach the top of your pattern rows.

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Joan Schrouder 2/12/03

Okay. I've fallen in love. Trendsetter Dune, color 88. Unbelievable stuff. Multicolored mohair and glittery glitz. ...... So, there's this cardigan I've always admired, in Knitter's No. 52, Fall 1998, page 86. It's called the "smoky skies" cardigan and is knit up in Colinette Isis at a gauge of 2.5 to the inch on size 10 1/2 needles. Dune's recommended gauge is 3.5 to the inch on size 10 needles. If I push the needle size up to get gauge I'm thinking that it's going to lead to a waaaay too open-looking sweater. Am I right? And I'm not 100% sure how to re-jig the math on the pattern for 3.5 stitches...oy. Does anyone know what I mean?

I've had good luck with holding a strand of another yarn along with so that you end up with a bulkier yarn and can keep to the original gauge. That way you won't have to refigure anything.

Re what to use -
I'd guess ~a sport wt or KW wt yarn will add enough bulk. You can work a small sample with some remnants you have on hand to see if you're in the ball park. Of course you can rip out and reuse the Dune as you won't want to waste a bit of it.

Choose a fiber that will work with the blend you've got, either more mohair, or a wool. Or a shiney rayon might work well and look really great.

You'll need 900 yds of the carry-along yarn, too, if that's what you figure you'll need for the Dune.

Color - since you're working with a multicolored yarn, you should have a good chance of finding something that coordinates well.

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Joan Schrouder3/6/03

I know alpaca is supposed to be less elastic than wool, but I made a swatch and it's not completely obvious that it would stretch out of shape. I suppose that happens with wear? Has anyone made a 100% baby alpaca sweater? Did you have to use particularly tight ribbings? Pattern stitches other than stockinette? Thanks in advance for advice. I've only worked with alpaca/wool blends before now. P.S. has anyone made baby alpaca socks? do they stay up?

I've knit several things from 100% alpaca, not necessarily baby alpaca, but I can't think that that would make much difference in the fit. Alpaca is a very lovely fiber.

Yes, it can sag. The main deterrent is to knit it firmly, ie a tighter gauge is preferable. Since the yarn is super-soft, it will still feel wonderful. And if you do any sts patts, esp. K/P combos, the tighter gauge will show them off better. Otherwise the softness of alpaca can obscure them.

Any shoulder seams should be worked firmly to retard any stretch. I worked my sweaters circularly; side seams are neither a "plus" or "minus" when it comes to stretching. I like to pick up arnd the armhole and work the sleeves down from the top. That way, if they do stretch more than anticipated, you can rip back to shorten. For that matter, doing the entire sweater from the top down isn't a bad idea. I refer you to Barbara Walker's KNITTING FROM THE TOP, repubbed by Schoolhouse Press, for lots of good info.

Alpaca makes an ideal shawl yarn. You can work it more loosely here as it will enhance the drape. Final size isn't a factor so much in a shawl, so if it stretches, no problem.

Re socks - I made some tube socks with them; they are very warm. Mine do have a tendancy to droop. If it bothered me a great deal, I'd slip stitch in some of that colored elastic thread from Rainbow/K1, C2 arnd the tops.

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Joan Schrouder 3/15/03

Is DK yarn all that different from worsted? It seems the gauge is slightly different, but if I were to knit slippers (for ShipsSupport), would I really need to change anything? I wonder if the yarn would wear too quickly.

DK is only half a st/inch lighter than KW. I've subbed between the two in some items without it being a great problem. But for the slippers you wouldn't want to sub the lighter wt for the heavier and keep the same gauge. As you surmised, a looser knit in a sock or slipper would lead to it wearing out sooner. Now if you're subbing the KW for a DK wt, that could work fine as it would make a thicker slipper. (say that fast 3 times. gg)

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Dawn Brocco 3/17/03

My question is, is there any advantage or disadvantage to knitting with two strands of smaller yarn at the same time, versus one strand of a thicker weight? The main advantage for me right now is that it would be much better for me to use up what I've already got in my too-large stash, rather than buying something new. But the knitted fabric seems a bit stiff and not as stretchy as I'd like.

Subbing 2 strands of a lighter weight yarn isn't *always* the same as using one strand of the heavier weight *Even If* the yards per ounce of the 2 options are exactly the same.

Why?

2 strands will lie differently in the sts than 1 thicker strand. BTST (been there, seen that). Most often, with something forgiving like a hat, it won't matter, but you *may* find you'll need to loosen your gauge a tad to keep the fabric from feeling too dense, unless, of course, if that is the desired effect. As you mentioned that you're finding it a tad stiff, go up in ndl size until you find a fabric you like, then just adjust the st count in the hat to accommodate the looser gauge.

As you mentioned, thinking in terms of using what you have in a different way (doubling, tripling) is great, as it's a practical and economical solution, but, as with anything, one needs to swatch to see how the fabric comes out - not just the gauge, but the fabric.

Often, separate strands provides a stronger fabric than a single strand, even if the same gauge, as each independent strand has it's own plies, that, taken together, give more plies than the plies in the 1 bulkier strand. More plies means more resistance to wear.

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8. One Skein Short Dilemma

Joan Schrouder 4/4/03

I am about one skein short of the recommended yardage for the man's knit vest I'd like to make. It has ribbing on the hem, the armholes, and there's also a button band which you knit and then sew on later. I'm wondering if I can hedge my bets by using an invisible cast-on at the bottom edge to see if I will have enough wool at the end to complete the ribbings and button band with the same wool, or if I will have to knit them in a different color. The armhole ribbings and button band are added so much later, that they would not be a problem. What do you think? Would the invisible cast-on make that possible, and is this a good plan? The cardigan vest is made from the bottom up, front and back separately. If anyone knows of a great top-down v-neck men's cardigan vest, I'm also open to suggestions.

It's a great plan. Either a contrasting color or a different dyelot can be successfully added this way. If you use long tail cast-on, you can use a strand of the waste yarn AND your sweater yarn to do so.

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Joan Schrouder 4/4/03

First, I want to make some Christmas stockings, but don't want to spend until Christmas on them! The patten I've chosen calls either for heavy worsted or worsted weight yarn. As I tend to knit on the tight side, I'm thinking of using a heavy worsted, but I'm afraid the stockings will be very heavy and dense. Any suggestions/preferences? Yarn suggestions? What about washability, esp. with red?

How often will you wash a Christmas stocking? You could steam block it after finishing it. After that, just shake it out, if it gets a little dusty. I've had one for ~10 years, and it hasn't needed washing.>/p>

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Joan Schrouder 4/4/03

I have a sears pattern book from 1968. Could anyone tell me what yarn available today is comparable to Sears afghan yarn. thanks

You can get an inkling by checking the recommended gauges of the yarn used in the various patterns. It will vary depending on the pattern st, but you should be able to get a general idea if it's a knitting worsted or a sport wt, for example.

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Joan Schrouder 4/10/03

I'm so frustrated with the yarn that I choose for my summer sleeveless top! It is extremely slippery and split like crazy. Unless I get the stitch right the first time, the yarn starts to look unravel if I had to work it twice.

I agree with those who told you to hang on to the project for the time being. After you get some more experience with knitting, you may then know how to work with it to better effect. Any of the following may make a huge difference in working with it:

1. Getting more familiar with the pattern st so that fewer errors are made.
2. someone else's excellent suggestion that blunter ndl tips could prevent splitting the yarn, so switching to another brand of ndls.
3. Re the biasing - you'll be able to look at your knitting and see if this is actually occuring. If it's too severe to block out, then ripping is pretty much your only recourse.

An alternate option may be to rip it out and reuse it, along with a fine mohair, into a sweater or afghan. Knitting with larger ndls necessitated by the now-thicker yarn(s) will avoid splitting. The colors/sheen of the yarn may prove to be a perfect addition to the softer yarn.

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Joan Schrouder 4/20/03

What is with putting patterns in magazines that use yarns that are no longer available by the time one gets the magazine? Some of these yarns disappear so quickly. Why don't designers just use the "usually available" yarns so we can all find them?

Yes, it's frustrating to not be able to find the yarns. But it's a fact of the knitting business that it's the yarn companies who buy advertising in the magazines and often pay at least part of the designer's fees, so therefore they're going to stipulate use of their yarns. IOW the designer doesn't always have a say in the choice of yarns.

Another issue is that the yarn manufacturing business is tied into the fashion industry. eg chartreuse yesterday, navy tomorrow. Designs are often called for nearly a year in advance of the magazine issue. It's a real gamble whether the yarn may still be available by the time the magazine comes out.

Fortunately, there are tons of different yarns out there. So, while the exact yarn/color may no longer be available, there are often substitutes that can give a similar result. LYS's will usually be happy to help, and now with the availability of the Internet, even more options are available.

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Pat Ashforth 5/05/03

The relationship between the diagonal and the side of a square in garter stitch is 1.4. If it is a straightforward square you multiply by 1.4 (when you know you need to get more stitches) or divide by 1.4 (when you know you need fewer stitches).

If you are working along an edge of unknown length the ratio is 1:1.4 or 1.4:1, depending on what you are doing.That is not as difficult as it sounds.

In your case you need more stitches so every 1 has to become 1.4. That is the same as 10 becoming 14, or, even easier, 5 has to become 7.

When I teach this in classes, I say pick up in knobble, knobble, ridge, knobble, knobble, knobble, ridge. (Imagine the effect of 40 or 50 people muttering this at the same time!) The 5 stitches are the knobbles, the extras are the ridges.

It is all based on Pythagoras Theorem and the square root of 2!

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